Eating under the trees

Eating under the trees

The motley collection of food stalls at Lengkok Burmah may not be much to look at but there’s good food to be had there.

ALTHOUGH Pulau Tikus is quite a built-up area, there are several pockets here and there that are still empty. One such pocket is a piece of land in Lengkok Burmah, just opposite Jalan Raja Gopal, which has become another of Penang’s popular chiu jang khar or “under the trees” eateries.

There, a motley collection of stalls, mismatched tables and stools are arranged higgledy-piggledy wherever there is space to squeeze one in. Odd pieces of roofing, canvas and multi-coloured parasols provide protection from the sun, although it is actually quite shady under the various palm and other trees which tower above.

Started about 15 years ago, the sprawling al-fresco eatery has, over time, become collectively known as “Lau Hiok H’nui” in Hokkien. Apparently, the area used to abound with dark green, aromatic daun kaduk plants many years ago. It’s popular with locals, especially office workers from the vicinity who pop in for a cheap and tasty lunch.

There are now some 20 or so stalls serving local delights like Hokkien Mee at Ah Leung’s; Lor Mee from twins Pang Jee and Pang Foong; Curry Mee, Claypot Noodles and Kuey Teow Soup. There are two drinks stalls, a Keng Jay P’nui (economy rice) and even Thai food.

Some are relatively new while others have become institutions in their own right. Chan Seng Chai at the front is a good example. At 70, the old man is still beavering away, frying up platefuls of fragrant char kuey teow the way he has been for the past 30+ years – with lard over a charcoal brazier. “This,” he claims, “ensures a different fragrance altogether.”

Given that most hawkers now rely on high-powered gas burners which turn the flames up or down at the flick of a switch, I wondered how he managed to control the heat. He indicated two simple devices: the air vent on the front of the ancient brazier which he shuts to turn the heat down, and a hand-held dried palm leaf fan which, every so often, he waves hard when he wants to raise the temperature. This old man has a thing or two to teach a generation which has grown up with remote controls and other labour-saving devices.

He has, however, made certain concessions to his age: daughter Siew Fung now assists, standing beside him adding ingredients like their own home-ground chilli paste – mass-produced just won’t do – and self-shelled see ham (cockles) while he continues frying and fanning. Even the little squares of banana leaves with which they line their plates come from home-grown trees.

She also takes the load off him by traipsing all over the grounds delivering the freshly-fried kuey teow and collecting used plates.

“Costs have risen,” he says, echoing a constant lament I hear from many hawkers. “When I first started, a plate cost 20 sen. Now it’s RM3.”

At the stall just behind is another old-timer, Ah Foong, 60, who has been selling her well-known Yee Sang Kai Chok (fish or chicken congee) for over 30 years. “I started in a Pulau Tikus coffeeshop when my daughter was in primary education,” she laughs, “and now her own child has started at school!”

In the background, husband Yap labours away washing up the used crockery and cutlery.

The youthful-looking grandmother uses ikan haruan for its smooth, fine flesh, which, she claims, is also good for health. Unlike certain meats which are considered “toxic” by the Chinese, even those who have just undergone surgery can eat haruan, she says. She believes she’s the only one in Penang to use it.

Customers can order various combinations of chicken, pork or fish cooked with bee hoon, mee sua, mee, moi – with its more grainy texture – and Hong Kong-style kentang chok, which she says has to be cooked over a low fire for three hours.

Prices range from RM3 to RM8 although she reminiscences fondly about a customer who once ka liu (added extra ingredients) of kidney, liver, intestines and fish, bringing the total to a whopping RM15!

Go right in and you’ll find Ong Seng Kek at his Fried Noodles stall. He’s also been at it over 30 years, starting at the same coffeeshop in Pulau Tikus as Ah Foong, then moving here over a decade ago.

Aided by wife Ah Hoong and son Ah Beng, he continues to dish up plate after plate of Sar Hor Fun or Hokkien Char, although apparently his fried rice is probably the best known.

It’s different because whereas at most stalls char siew is added during the cooking process, his is laid on top after, making it almost a Char Siew Chao Fun instead. It’s quite delicious, albeit slightly sweet, but good with a dollop of sambal belacan.

Lengkok Burmah’s Chiu Jang Khar eatery is open weekdays (closed on public holidays) from about 7am or 8am until 2pm or 3pm.

>Helen Ong loves Penang and food, not necessarily in that order. Check out her website at www.helenong.com.

-News courtesy of The Star-